September 25-30, 2013 - The Ohio and Cumberland Rivers

We awoke wondering what the day would bring as we entered the Ohio River.  Once on the Ohio we would be going against the current so we anticipated a slow day – not to mention the waits anticipated at the upcoming locks.  Jeff turned on the AIS (Automated Identification System) and counted 30+ tows on the Ohio as we rounded the corner. Yikes! 

We were extremely happy to discover that most of the tows were in a staging area at the mouth of the river. As we got further upriver we began to slow down as we were traveling against a 3 knot current somewhat due to the heavy rains the day before.

Last sunrise over the Mississippi River

Traffic on the Ohio River

 
In route to Lock 53 we passed the Olmstead Lock and Dam project with a project completion date of “indefinite.”   This lock and dam are being built to replace both Locks 53 and 52, but has had delay after delay.  The current cost estimate is $2.918 billion!  That’s not a typo… BILLION…  The original cost estimate was $775 million.    

The Olmstead Lock and Dam money pit

As we approached Lock 53 (the first lock on the Ohio) we learned that the wickets were down and there was no need to lock through.  The current was extremely strong going over the dam and, as a test, Jeff didn’t touch the throttle, and we got down to 1 mph.  Needless to say before we started going backward, Jeff laid into the throttle, but our buddy Carina was unable to make it up the river.  The lockmaster was no  help, telling Carina to tie up to the lock wall and wait it out (which could be several days), but Free At Last said they had experience at towing sailboats and turned around to go get Carina.  They kept Carina in tow all the way to Lock 52, a good 20 mile trip!  Way to go Steve!

Going over the wickets at Lock and Dam 53.

Free At Last flips the trip and goes back to get Carina

 

In route all types of interesting things were going on.

 

Just a cool bug...

Passed a huge tow, the Clyde Butcher, with a 5000 hp motor.

You can see below that he's able to push quite a load. 

 The Joppa Power Plant

 

Jeff trying to take flight...

 

Passed Metropolis which is known for having all things Superman related. We thought we would forego the stop and maybe come back one day by land as we saw a line of tows and barges awaiting their turn through the lock.  As RVs (recreational vessels) have a lower priority at locking through, we knew that we had to get in line.

 

Harrah's at Metropolis

 Tows with their barges banked awaiting their turn at Lock 52.

 

Passed Ft. Massac a replica of the reprovisioning stop for Meriwether Lewis. The fort was originally built by the French during the French and Indian War and has been rebuilt many times over the years as it was destroyed several times during conflicts and earthquakes. The last such destruction being by locals taking the premium logs for their personal construction projects.

Earlier in the day we called Lock 52 to let them know our group of RVs were in route.  Once we were in the home stretch, we called again and were told that it would be at least a 3 hour wait.  It was suggested that we come up closer to the dam and drop anchor so that when we were called, we could get into the lock quickly.  We followed the instructions, not too disappointed with a 3 hour wait as we had heard stories of 8+ hour waits and locking through and anchoring in the dark. 

Somehow our luck held out again and after an hour on the hook the lock called us and said that a tow’s crew was running late; so, if we could hurry in they would lock us through right away.  Needless to say, anchors flew up the windlasses, and we were all off and running!

 At anchor at the dam at Lock 52

 The mad dash to the lock

 One tow comes out of the lock...

another goes into the lock...

We got to lock through with him since he had no barges.



SeaGlide pulled up behind the tow and everyone else got in right behind us.

The lockmaster let the RVs out of the lock first as the turbulence of the tows has been known to wreak havoc inside locks spinning RVs around in all directions.  We then made our way to Paducah.  Our destination was the free dock there, but, upon arrival, it was so small that we decided to move on to an anchorage.  

Passing the Lydia Campbell leaving Lock 52

After seeing the free dock and passing the American Queen Riverboat, a voice came on over the VHF talking to us.  It suggested an anchorage and gave us quick directions.  A few minutes later the voice came back on and told us we were looking good, but to move a little further starboard.  Later yet again, the voice hailed us and told us to move on past the mooring cells, and we would be well situated in the anchorage and out of the way of traffic.  Not believing the voice was our shot at divine intervention, Jeff looked around and asked “Do you mind me asking – where are you?”  The guy gave a hearty chuckle, and we found out that he worked at a fuel dock and had a great view of everything going on in the harbor.  

The American Queen riverboat

Cuba Towhead anchorage behind these mooring cells

We settled into the anchorage, had docktails aboard Free At Last, and enjoyed the beauty of Cuba Towhead.

We awoke to a beautiful morning with some fog rising over the river.  We made our way down the Ohio toward the Cumberland River.  Of course, in route we passed the usual tows and barges.  However, once we got to the Cumberland the river narrowed and there were more trees and hills.

Entering the Cumberland River 

Along the Cumberland there were several quarries

and lots of barges waiting to be loaded.

 

As we neared Barkley Lake Dam we called the lock, and they told us we would have a 45 minute wait.  Not too bad as the Kentucky Lock on the Tennessee River was undergoing repairs and much of the traffic on the Tennessee was coming through the Cumberland instead.  Thiis was another lock that had kept folks 8+ hours and even had RVs locking through at night.  The lockmaster was just about right as 50 minutes later, a tow came out of the lock and we were able to get right through.

Barkley Lake Dam and Power Plant

 The tow exiting the lock as we enter

SeaGlide's good-looking Captain focused on

entering the lock 

As usual, the Captain brings me right where I need to be

to secure SeaGlide inside the lock.  The locks on the rivers

have floating bollards, which make locking through easy.

And then after miles of just trees and water, we were

back in civilization and right in the middle of

a great pack of Loopers at Green Turtle Bay Marina.

After a great docktail party, we got one of the resort's

many golf carts and trekked to town with

Free At Last and Tour de Loop

 

Our destination.... Patti's...

Home of the 2" porkchop, flower pot bread, and

mile high pie. 

Celebrating Kathy's birthday

 

We planned to stay at Green Turtle Bay for a few days and as the rain came down the next day we decided to make use of the resort's courtesy car and explore the Land Between the Lakes.  Off we went with Free At Last and Sun Gypsy.  We saw a show at the Observatory and then toured the Elk and Bison Prairie.  We were rewarded with many elk and bison sightings - I guess the rain and cool weather had them all up and moving about.

 

Our picnic lunch

 

We enjoyed many dinners on property with a bunch of Loopers each time.  Green Turtle was a great place to catch up with folks that we had not seen in a while.  After a few days, we took off to explore Lake Barkley.

Green Turtle Bay Marina

Amos gave his best buddy Heidi a stuffed animal look-alike

as we said goodbye for now to our buddies aboard Barefoot'n.